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Title: Material driven textile design : designing fully integrated textile fabrication and finishing processes with regenerated cellulose in the materials science laboratory
Author: Ribul, Miriam
ISNI:       0000 0004 8499 3248
Awarding Body: University of the Arts London
Current Institution: University of the Arts London
Date of Award: 2019
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This research addresses the potential for design to intervene at the raw material stage of regenerated cellulose in chemical recycling. The investigation develops new textile processes inscribed within the context of the circular bioeconomy. The raw material stage that is the point of enquiry of this PhD project is cellulose dissolution obtained through the scientific development of dissolving waste cotton textiles into a liquid. This is carried out by using a non-toxic solvent in order to regenerate the waste cotton into a new fibre form. When regenerated cellulose is introduced into textile processes, textile design and materials science collaborations follow the established value chain from fibre, to yarn, to knitted and woven finished products. A circular bioeconomy is achieved when the scientific method can transform the resulting textiles back into a cellulose dissolution. Methodologies for textile design with these regenerated materials begin with a vision for a product or application, however material properties can inform the exploration of the material in design. The research developed a methodology for Material Driven Textile Design (MDTD), the first of its kind for textile design based in the materials science laboratory for developing new textile processes with regenerated cellulose. The methodology is structured into the three stages-exploration, translation and activation-each corresponding to three design residencies in materials science laboratories. The four resulting biocompatible textile processes validate the methodology and produce textiles regenerated solely from waste sources. The first technique prints the cellulose dissolution onto fabric for textile manipulation, finish and shape at the finishing stage in the value chain. The second technique reuses the colour from the waste textile source as the dye for the cellulose dissolution in the finishing processes stage. Design intervenes at the fibre stage of the value chain in the third technique, which is the fabrication of a nonwoven textile. At the raw material stage, the fourth technique fabricates a composite with visual and haptic textile qualities. The impact of these results is that textile fabrication and finishing processes can be fully integrated with the regeneration processes of cellulose materials. Together they form a model for regenerative value chains that reduces the fabrication steps in the established value chain from raw material to finished textile at the point of each chemical recycling stage.
Supervisor: Not available Sponsor: Not available
Qualification Name: Thesis (Ph.D.) Qualification Level: Doctoral
EThOS ID:  DOI: Not available
Keywords: Textile Design