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Title: An investigation into the measurement, prediction and elimination of seam pucker
Author: Amir, Muhammad
ISNI:       0000 0004 7655 8852
Awarding Body: Heriot-Watt University
Current Institution: Heriot-Watt University
Date of Award: 2017
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Seam pucker of lightweight woven fabrics is an important consideration for the clothing industry and has been for several decades. It plays an important role in the grading of garments and the attraction of purchasing customers. This thesis focused on the measurement, prediction and elimination of seam pucker, by investigating its causes in terms of deformation. For the calculation of deformation, a mathematical model was developed based on the interaction of the established physical and low stress mechanical properties of the thread and fabric in the stitched assembly by using a single needle lock stitched sewing machine. The calculated seam deformation magnitudes of eighteen lightweight woven fabrics stitched with two types of sewing threads were validated in comparison with the subjective AATCC-88B seam pucker grades. The severity of seam pucker was also examined by introducing a new term, Relative Pucker (Rp), and calculated magnitudes were validated by a comparison with the subjective seam pucker grades. The pucker patterns in the stitched assemblies were also evaluated by the application of the Pucker Laser Measuring System (PLMS) and the MATLAB image processing technique employed to deduce the peaks and troughs of each pattern (signal) along the seam line. The ratio of the deduced peaks and troughs of both patterns along the seam line was called Pucker Severity (P.S.) and their summation called Pucker Index (P.I.). The calculated Pucker Index was also validated in comparison with the subjective AATCC-88B pucker grades of eighteen fabrics stitched with the two types of threads. For the prediction and elimination of seam pucker, the critical pucker magnitudes were introduced to compare with the actual seam deformation. This established that the stitched assembly possessed unacceptable seam pucker when seam deformation magnitude is equal to or greater than critical pucker. The predicted seam pucker assemblies are transformed into pucker free fabrics by applying a precisely calculated amount of stiffener under the seam line. The transformed stitched assemblies demonstrated acceptable subjective AATCC-88B seam pucker grades. The work in this thesis culminates in a practical, precise and user-friendly guideline for the clothing industry to eliminate seam pucker by measuring the exact amount of required bending rigidity of stiffener for a particular thread, corresponding to the actual deformation, to produce pucker free seams.
Supervisor: Stylios, George K. ; Waldron, Fiona Sponsor: Not available
Qualification Name: Thesis (Ph.D.) Qualification Level: Doctoral
EThOS ID:  DOI: Not available