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Title: 13th-14th century Yuan and Mongol silk-gold textiles : transcultural consumption, meaning and reception in the Mongol empire and in Europe
Author: Lunde, Kristin Scheel
ISNI:       0000 0004 7656 1111
Awarding Body: SOAS University of London
Current Institution: SOAS, University of London
Date of Award: 2018
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This thesis examines the material and visual characteristics of silk-gold textiles produced in the Mongol empire during the 13th and 14th century. Their consumption and reception both within and beyond the Mongol empire is a central theme. Beginning with a discussion of the various consumption patterns of gold textiles and their multiple uses among the members of the Mongol elite, I then examine the eclectic gold designs and ornaments of the textiles and their symbolic representations in relation to aesthetics, cosmology and identity. The movement and transformation of gold textiles beyond the Mongol Empire is explored the second half and European consumption pattern are shown to share some similarities with the patterns of consumption practices discovered in the Mongol Empire. The comparative approach utilized here is new but these gold textiles have, in the past, been studied as products of one location, and categorized accordingly. Generally they have been assigned geographical and cultural provenances based on their stylistic features and their technical features. For this reason, gold textiles are often assigned to specific locations of production. This thesis challenges this practice and argues that concepts such as identity, authenticity, provenance and hybridity remain undependable measures when evaluating gold textiles from the Mongol period.
Supervisor: Not available Sponsor: Not available
Qualification Name: Thesis (Ph.D.) Qualification Level: Doctoral