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Title: Breaking waves on beaches
Author: Quinn, Paul Anthony
Awarding Body: University of Edinburgh
Current Institution: University of Edinburgh
Date of Award: 1995
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A comprehensive experimental study has been carried out to measure the velocity field of waves breaking on two types of beach. The measurement technique of Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) has been used throughout to measure the full-field, instantaneous velocity distributions. This technique is described in some detail with particular attention paid to the errors inherent when using PIV in this application. The first type of beach studied has a mild slope, typical of sandy beaches. PIV measurements have been carried out on 1:30 and 1:100 plane sloping beaches with monochromatic waves. The measured internal kinematics are compared to those predicted by the Boussinesq and Serre wave models, with some good agreement. However, there are some significant differences in the near-surface region of the wave crest which tend to increase as the waves propagate up the beach. In addition to these theoretical comparisons, the Integral Properties of the waves on the 1:30 slope are calculated from the PIV measurements. The second type of beach examined is typical of a shingle beach. In addition to being steeper than the previous case, these beaches are also profiled, representing the shape of the beach formed under storm conditions. Two profiles have been modelled and three different monochromatic waves have been measured on each. The wave breaking processes are described and velocity measurements from each wave on both beaches are shown. Furthermore, a near-bed velocity comparison between the three waves at various positions along each beach has also been carried out in order to explain any potential on-shore and off-shore sediment motion.
Supervisor: Not available Sponsor: Not available
Qualification Name: Thesis (Ph.D.) Qualification Level: Doctoral
EThOS ID:  DOI: Not available