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Title: Re-addressing the role of knitted textile design knowledge : auxetic textiles from a practice-led, designer-maker perspective
Author: Glazzard, M.
ISNI:       0000 0004 5354 6664
Awarding Body: Nottingham Trent University
Current Institution: Nottingham Trent University
Date of Award: 2014
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This study reacts to the segregation of knowledge and practice surrounding weft-knitted textiles, their design and applications. This study challenges current disciplinary practices that divide knit into scientific, design and art areas by describing a designer-maker methodology, which is used to produce auxetic, weft-knitted textiles. By using a designer-maker’s practice-led perspective to create functional fabrics, it seeks to challenge the perception that technical and functional research in textiles is or should be the domain of scientific methodologies and engineering practice. This study does not apply external methodologies to the research design, but extracts its methods and values from an existing knit design practice, built from experiential knowledge, that becomes the basis for the methodology. Qualitative and quantitative measures of success are both vital to the methodology used in this study and both subjective and objective perspectives are embraced. The practical work uses designer-maker practice to lead the development of 30 auxetic fabric samples. These fabrics are appraised using a variety of methods including personal reflection, numerical measurement and feedback from focus groups of other practitioners. The information developed on auxetic materials is presented in various ways such as using percentages, diagrams, photographs and videos to encourage dissemination and knowledge transfer between different disciplinary groups. Auxetic effect is conveyed in photographic, diagrammatic, video, graphical, percentage and Poisson’s ratio data to increase understanding to wide audiences and to satisfy traditional, scientific auxetic researchers as well as a new area of design-based practitioners. This study presents the case that there is a valuable, transferrable knowledge in knit design practice that represents existing methodologies used by knit practitioners as well as providing a new methodology for consideration by science and engineering practitioners. This is demonstrated through the production of auxetic, knitted fabrics using a design approach that incorporates qualitative, quantitative, practical, aesthetic, functional and theoretical skills.
Supervisor: Not available Sponsor: Not available
Qualification Name: Thesis (Ph.D.) Qualification Level: Doctoral
EThOS ID:  DOI: Not available