Title:
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The food culture of East London 1880-1914
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This thesis offers a re-reading of the cultural history of East London's working class
by focusing on the culture of food. During the 19th century, published reports by
philanthropists and investigative journalists such as Jack London (People of the
Abyss) tended to portray the East End as a locus of deprivation and immorality
where starvation was rife, food was substandard, and ignorance perpetuated a poor
diet. Challenges to such perspectives went largely overlooked, and the myth of the
bad East End was consolidated. Academic and popular historians such as William
Fishman (East End 1888) and Ellen Ross (Love and Toil: motherhood in outcast
London, 1870-1912) have continued since then to foreground crime, destitution and
the outcast minority.
In contrast this study presents a more contradictory and nuanced history of East
London's culture. It explores elements of middle- and upper-working class food
preparation and consumption practices, cultures of knowledge, and attitudes
towards nutrition. It draws on diverse sources such as oral history, local
newspapers, personal photographs and scrapbooks, shop records, minutes of
meetings, and a child's exercise book.
Through these means it makes the case that a sufficient and comprehensive food
culture existed both at home and in public spaces in East London. Working-class
people sought to expand their knowledge about food and cooking from school and
college cookery lessons, public lectures and demonstrations. Furthermore,
awareness of food was integral to East End culture; born of economic necessity and
shaped by custom, organic knowledge about food was nurtured by the culture's
permeable boundaries between public and private, leisure and labour, and
production and consumption. Using the Report of the Inter-Departmental
Committee on Physical Deterioration of 1904 as a case study, this work explores
the broader issue of food within the context of changing conceptions of nutrition.
Thus a more inclusive version of East London's history can be offered through an
understanding of food culture.
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