Title:
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Art, industry and design : the role of Japanese and Anglo-Japanese textiles in Victorian Britain, 1862-1900
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This thesis employs the model of textile culture to illuminate the artistic
interaction between Japan and Great Britain as well as the economic, cultural,
political and gender issues underpinning this interaction between the years of 1862
and 1900. The chapters move beyond a stylistic study of Japanese and Anglo-
Japanese textiles by considering them in relation to a variety of contexts and artistic
processes, including international exhibitions; museum, educational and private
collections; the domestic interior; travel; their representation in British painting and
their inspiration in British textile design and manufacture. When possible, case
studies of designers and artists who not only appropriated Japanese elements in their
work, but also visited Japan, are called upon to determine the extent to which such an
experience inspired their work as opposed to the degree to which these visitors
imposed their preconceived ideas on Japanese art, people and culture, and compare
travellers' reception of Japan to perceptions of Japan commonly held in Victorian
Britain. A number of theories strongly inform this thesis, including material and
visual culture, consumption, postcolonial, and gender theories.
In considering the role of Japanese and Anglo-Japanese textiles in Victorian
British art, design and industry, the first chapter looks at the exhibition and reception
of Japanese textiles and clothing at the international exhibitions, beginning with the
London 1862 Exhibition, and asks how these events shaped British perceptions of
Japanese national identity and contributed to the feminisation of its culture. The
second chapter demonstrates how these perceptions informed the representation of
Japanese textiles and kimono in British painting as well as how these textiles
stylistically inspired painting. The third chapter contrasts the ways in which Japanese
textiles provided ideas for new designs to the ways in which designers produced
Anlgo-Japanese patterns fitting Victorian consumers' ideas of Japan. The fourth
chapter enhances this discussion by comparing the production of Anglo-Japanese
textiles for the luxury to those affordable to middle class consumers. This chapter
considers the role of textile manufacturing firms in disseminating interest in the
Japanese style. The final chapter discusses how female consumers employed
Japanese and Anglo-Japanese textiles in the decoration of the domestic interior and
argues that when women and Japan became further involved in the masculine- or
European-dominated world of commerce, women through their consumption and
Japan through its production, the artistic value of Japanese decorative art and
women's taste was depreciated
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