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Title: Crafting the technological: Ganseys and wholegarment knitting
Author: Shaw, Ann Marie
ISNI:       0000 0004 2679 6430
Awarding Body: The Manchester Metropolitan University
Current Institution: Manchester Metropolitan University
Date of Award: 2009
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The launch of Wholegarment© machinery/technology by the Japanese company Shima Seiki in the mid 1990's signified a paradigm shift for the way that garments could be manufactured. Up to this point, knitwear manufacture had involved a series of operations, all of which added to the eventual cost of a garment. The research utilises a design-practice approach to explore new possibilities for making clothes, which are underpinned by a seamless knitted form and highlights a shift of focus of the cost, from manufacture to design. In order to do this, data has been gathered from museum collections of early examples of seamless garments and this has been combined with a personal design vision, which is inspired by the landscape and cultural heritage of the fishing and knitting communities of the North East Coast of Britain. Removed from the seasonal constraints fashion can impose, new ideas and concepts for making clothes have been developed. The cultural context of the designs is central to the research and the importance of craft and the vision of the individual in post mass-production fashion is also explored. One of the main aims of the research is to explain and conduct it in a highly visual way. The research offers: • A review of published material relating to seamless knitwear • An insight into the relationship between technology, craft and the design process. • A model for 'practice-concluded' design research • Proposals for post-production customisation techniques for seamless knitwear The findings of the study revealed that: • The role of a designer is evolving as we enter a post-mass production era. • That craft techniques (such as hand knitting) can help a designer to understand and relate to complex technology • That storytelling, authenticity and craft can be linked to a new definition of 'luxury' Suggestions for future research are given at the end of the thesis.
Supervisor: Not available Sponsor: Not available
Qualification Name: Thesis (Ph.D.) Qualification Level: Doctoral
EThOS ID:  DOI: Not available