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Title: Nineteenth century Lancashire woven cottons : studies in the role of the designer in the production process
Author: Munby, Jenepher Zoe
ISNI:       0000 0001 3431 2844
Awarding Body: Manchester Polytechnic
Current Institution: Manchester Metropolitan University
Date of Award: 1986
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This study of woven cottons begins with an examination of hand-loom weavers' note books, providing evidence of their involvement in the design process which was as important as the influence of manufacturers. Subsequently, methods of pattern making in power loom weaving ended the weavers' involvement in design. Yet hand loom weavers' methods survived, as individuals became designers, or manufacturers, in the mills. Contemporary concern. for the quality of industrial design resulted in the establishment of design education. Whilst this failed to address the practicalities of woven design, technical education was free to develop a narrow definition of design. Teachers of weaving and design in the late nineteenth century, benefitting by the restructuring of the industry, did not question the narrowing scope of weavers' and designers' work. The use of design registration and patenting reinforced this process. Simple, functional cloths were not widely featured in industrial exhibitions, and the quality of their design tradition was not recognised as meriting preservation. Independent design businesses emerged in Manchester. Initially these jacquard designers provided specialist technical expertise. Increased demand for cheaper design, with power loom jacquard weaving, reduced the technical element of their work. The aesthetic and social consequences of design changes are examined in the cases of fustians, quiltings, and cloths for India. Mass production altered the organisation of manufacture and design, resulting in both a diversification of structural and pattern design, and a simplification, and cheapening of existing cloth types. The merchants' knowledge of their market made a crucial contribution to fustian design; lack of it hindered design for India, where the additional factor of low quality arose. The importance of structural design expertise was apparent in the refinement of fustian design, and in the long survival of small scale and hand manufacture of quiltings.
Supervisor: Not available Sponsor: Not available
Qualification Name: Thesis (Ph.D.) Qualification Level: Doctoral
EThOS ID:  DOI: Not available
Keywords: Manufacture of cotton cloth