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Title: The Ikat textiles of Lamalera, Lembata within the context of eastern Indonesian fabric traditions
Author: Barnes, Ruth
ISNI:       0000 0001 2429 1904
Awarding Body: University of Oxford
Current Institution: University of Oxford
Date of Award: 1984
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The thesis describes a weaving tradition which until now has been largely ignored. It concentrates on one particular community and tries to give historical depth to a complex ethnographic situation. Lamalera was founded by outsiders from other parts of eastern Indonesia. The settling took place prior to European contacts with the area. The village has traditionally looked in two directions: adopting the local language and culture, it also provided a major connection to the outside world for the people of the interior. The ikat weavings produced in Lamalera illustrate well the many facets of the community. Chapter 1 is an introduction to the ikat technique and design in Indonesia. The importance of imported Indian cloths, patola, is first mentioned. Chapters 2 to 4 deal with the technical side of cloth production. In Chapter 2 the cotton preparation, spinning, and dyeing are described. Chapter 3 introduces the loom universally used in Lamaholot. The ikat process is described in Chapter 4. From Chapter 5 to 10 the functions of cloth are discussed. Textiles as costume are described in Chapter 5. Chapter 6 concentrates on the local trade in cloths, which is economically vital to Lamalera. Chapter 7 gives the ikat patterns found on women's sarongs, starting with the traditional patterns which are suitable for use on bridewealth cloths, and discusses both recent and ancient foreign influences which were introduced through trade. Chapter 8 links particular traditional patterns with certain clans. Chapter 9 elaborates on the connection between clan patterns and patola influences. Chapter 10 describes the role of textiles as gifts. Chapters 11 and 12 compare the weaving of Lamalera to other Lamaholot traditions. The oral history of the settling of Lamalera is given in Chapter 13, while Chapter 14 places the local tradition into historical context. The conclusion elaborates on the historical and geographic network which the textiles of Lamalera have been part of.
Supervisor: Not available Sponsor: Not available
Qualification Name: Thesis (Ph.D.) Qualification Level: Doctoral
EThOS ID:  DOI: Not available
Keywords: Indonesian anthropology