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Title: Development of a conceptual model for anthropometric practices and applications regarding complete garment technologies for the UK women's knitwear industry
Author: Brownbridge, Kathryn
Awarding Body: Manchester Metropolitan University
Current Institution: Manchester Metropolitan University
Date of Award: 2012
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Abstract:
To create garments that fit the body, anthropometric data must be utilised within the product development process. When producing woven garments a relationship between the garment and the body is determined at various different stages within the process. Knitted fabric is extensible and has the ability to stretch and mould around the body. Determining the dimensions of these garments therefore must be considered specifically. When shaping a garment on flat-bed machinery, practitioners have to work within a limited set of parameters to create garment shape. Traditional fully fashioned garments are knitted as panels and then constructed. Advanced complete garment technology can knit, shape and construct a garment three dimensionally. Those at the forefront of technology development claim it provides the manufacturer with many benefits including improved frt. The utilisation of new technologies has been advocated as a way for UK knitwear manufacturers threatened by cheap imports to remain competitive. However the pace at which the technology has advanced has led to concerns about whether designers and technicians have the skills to exploit machine capability and realise potential benefits. Certainly to produce knitted garments with improved fit implies that the development process must utilise anthropometric data. Potential improvements in the knitted garment will only be of benefit if they are recognised and appreciated by the consumer The research employed qualitative strategies of data collection, including interviews and case studies. Mapping the UK knitwear industry provided a sampling frame for case studies. An evaluation of the utilisation of anthropometric data within the development of complete garments and the impact, complete garment technology has on product development was conducted. An analysis of consumer preferences regarding complete garments was also conducted. This informed the development of a theoretical framework for female fit preferences relating to knitwear. Seven companies were utilising complete garment technology within the UK. Case study analysis provided evidence to indicate that only pre-established garment measurement is applied to knitwear, not anthropometric data. The relationship between the garment and the body is only determined during fit trials. Practices were heavily influenced by outdated methods which impeded the ability to design and develop complete garments autonomously. In addition designers and technicians do not have the skills to conceptualise and develop the 3D garment in relation to the body. Consequently they are reliant on the machine builders as the only providers of garment templates and skills support. In terms of garment fit, focus group analysis revealed that female consumers had very specific preferences that related to knitwear. They demanded garments that provided flattering fit and the theoretical framework reveals how this flattering fit is defined. Finally a conceptual model propose
Supervisor: Not available Sponsor: Not available
Qualification Name: Thesis (Ph.D.) Qualification Level: Doctoral
EThOS ID: uk.bl.ethos.592028  DOI: Not available
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