The influence of woven stretch fabric properties on pattern design
Conventional pattern construction and pattern making methods typically require the size measurements of a range of standard mannequins or human bodies in order to construct the varying pattern blocks for garment design. These various methods and skills, in the fashion industry, factory or studio are performed by pattern makers or producers, and are refined through the garment sampling and wearer trial system (an uneconomical trial and error) used on woven garments or on woven stretch garments to produce varying garment designs. This is particularly true when fabric stretch and recovery properties and values are encountered. There is a strong alliance with the heuristic knowledge. The aim of the present work is to investigate the influence of woven stretch fabric properties on pattern construction. The stretch and recovery properties of woven stretch fabrics will be taken account for pattern reduction and alteration for the development of a suitable garment pattern to fit the body shape and to meet the comfort requirement during the body movement. The relationship between the degree of alteration and reduction and the relevant fabric stretch properties is to be established. In this thesis, the stretch and recovery properties of various woven stretch fabrics have been measured. The conventional pattern is reduced and altered based on the comfort requirement for body movement, fit to body shape and the extension and recovery properties of the woven stretch fabric. Wearer trial test of the altered garment pattern of woven stretch fabrics is carried out for subjective and objective evaluation in the reference of the traditional woven garment pattern. Their comfort and garment appearances are evaluated by a panel of judges and the wearer. The size and shape stability of garments after the wearing tests are assessed. The results demonstrated that the new pattern method was significantly better for woven stretch fabric. The garment pattern for fit and comfort can be predicated and produced according to the extension and recovery properties of fabrics.